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Marks and Spencer puts a range of cotton T-shirts and socks, made from cotton sourced from to cater to growing consumer demands for ethically-produced clothing
Since fair trade items became the buzzword in ethical consumerism a few years ago, coffee, chocolates, flowers and fruit have been the staple buys. In recent years, however, clothing produced under the Fairtrade label (a trademark owned by the Fairtrade Foundation, the only independent guarantee of a better deal for Third World producers) has become one of the biggest success stories in the business of ethical living.
The UK-based retail clothing chain Marks and Spencer (M&S) recently launched a sale of men's and women's socks and T-shirts, made from cotton produced by farmers in Gujarat, across 36 stores in Britain. On the shelves since the start of the annual Fairtrade Fortnight (March 6-19), the T-shirts and twin packs of socks cost UK 8 and UK 5 respectively, with women's versions for UK 1 less.
Fairtrade Fortnight is a global campaign highlighting the plight of farmers in developing countries who are exploited by middlemen and get an unfair price for their produce.
M&S has guaranteed farmers a fair price, said a statement by Shell Foundation, an independent charity registered in the UK, which is partnering M&S in this initiative. M&S maintains that the sales will benefit small-scale cotton-growers in India and enable investments in community-based schemes like health awareness programmes for school children.
The move cuts through years of state government monopoly on cotton, which has kept the market price of cotton distorted. And, for the 500 small-scale farmers cultivating 1,500 acres, it means a fair price -- higher than local markets -- and access to global markets.
Cotton wholesaler and agricultural service provider, Agrocel, initially procured the fair trade cotton from farmers in Bhuj district, supplying it to Marks and Spencer's value chain. Later, Agrocel went on to procure cotton from other areas in Gujarat as well.
"Too often farmers in India are exploited by middlemen who offer them a poor price. This can result in a cycle of despair. The farmers exhaust their land as they attempt to grow more and more produce just to make a living," said Shell Foundation programme manager Sharna Jarvis in an official statement. "By bringing together the farmers, Agrocel and M&S in this innovative partnership, we have delivered a sustainable solution to these problems."
Normally, a British company the size of M&S would not deal with small-scale cotton farmers in India. The move was facilitated by the Shell Foundation, which had been working with the issue of organic, pesticide-free cotton for three years. The foundation worked closely with farmers, providing initial financial and logistical support and smoothening out the supply chain according to M&S specifications.
For example, the harvesting process often leaves cotton dirty or contaminated. To help solve the problem, the foundation supplied farmers with hairnets and better storage facilities.
Explaining how it eliminated obstacles in the supply chain, the foundation said it had helped Agrocel build a stockpile called a 'yarn bank'. It also provided consultants to help Agrocel streamline other elements of the supply chain.
The launch of the Fairtrade cotton range from Gujarat comes close on the heels of a survey by M&S that found that 78% of shoppers wanted to know more about the way clothes are made, including the use of chemicals and conditions in factories producing the goods. "Customers want good value, but they care more than ever how food and clothing products are made," says M&S chief executive Stuart Rose.
Barbara Crowther of the Fairtrade Foundation says that the recent upsurge in fair trade clothing cannot be dismissed as a fad. "If you take M&S for example, they have been working on the ground with cotton farmers in India for the last few years. They're not just looking at what's been going on for the last couple of months. If we as shoppers have made fair trade fashionable, then it's a win-win situation for the producers and the shoppers... It is a way that companies can respond directly to a growing consumer trend, whilst also doing the right thing in ensuring that farmers and workers have got a better deal -- a fair price and a social premium payment that they can themselves invest for a better future."
Safia Minney, founder of the ethical clothing chain People Tree says: "It's not just a trend, it's about people understanding the issues and being able to access ethical and fair trade (goods). Most people want to do the right thing and are fed up with the horror stories of sweatshops. (They) are waking up to the huge environmental burden that fashion places on the environment."
Crowther adds that young people have been driving the change in attitudes towards fair trade products. "The recognition of the Fairtrade mark is growing fastest in the 15-24 age-group."
The Fairtrade system, working in 58 developing countries, helps an estimated 5 million people worldwide, including farmers, workers and their families. Currently, there are 1,500 Fairtrade-marked products available in Britain, and, last year, they achieved sales of UK 195 million. According to figures from the Fairtrade Foundation, sales of ethical products grew by over 50% during 2004.
Source: The Indian Express, March 20, 2006
Express Newsline, March 20, 2006
www.voice-online.co.uk, March 15, 2006
www.shellfoundation.org
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